A light at the end of the tunnelCon

A light at the end of the tunnel

Continue washing down the walls of the flask, condenser/tubing with dH2O. Once satisfied, prepare 200 to 400 ml of your NP (Toluene, Naphtha, Xylene ect.) and place post-reaction vessel in a ice bath. (Whooooaaaa there little horsy!!! You didn’t filter it…No need to since you are not using rp. Put in CLEAN precursors, you get clean post reaction solution. A perk of this method over the rp’s, you get the goods without the crud). While contents are chilling, now is a great time for another beer and to clean up the equipment from phase one.

With the NP and near Go-Go cooled, add your sodium hydroxide (aqueous solution or direct) in small amounts to the flask. NOTE: A solution is preferred over directly adding lye to contents due to less gaak noticed in the pull process and less exothermic reaction. What one should be looking for is ’snow’ or the solution turning white to form and not clear up after several minutesLet the contents settle down again and mix/swirl flask. If the white went away, your not there, so add a bit more base. This process will keep one from adding more lye than needed and causing ‘Lye Lock’ from occurring. Keep adding your lye in small portions and swirling until the solution is ph 12.5+. If desired, pour in some salt to help push all the Go-Go up into the NP, but use NON-IONIZED!.

Decant the top layer into your sep funnel. Don’t worry if some of the bottom layer gets in, you want to get all of your NP though. Shake, swirl what ever for several minutes. Let settle then decant the bottom layer off and SAVE. Swirl the funnel to wash the side wall down. While the contents settle, drink a beer while you heat up 50 ml of dH2O in the microwave (for about 45 sec, or until it boils vigoursly). Drain off the bottom layer again if any. Pour in the hot dH2O into the sep. Swirl the sep around for a few seconds before placing the top on LOOSELY. (Vapors are produced when something is heated). Wash the NP layer well to rid it of any Gaak, contaminants and excess sodium ions. While contents are settling, finish the remainder of the open beer.

Decant the bottom layer and add 50 - 100 ml of chilled dH2O. (About 1/2 the amount of NP). Swirl/mix/shake the contents. Let settle and then decant. Do this a few more times with hot then cold dH2O. After the final wash, let the sep settle for awhile. Drain off the bottom layer of water/Gaak if any. Swirl funnel to wash down the sidewalls and let settle. Drain again if needed.

Add 30 – 40 ml of dH2O to the sep. Now add 4 – 6 drops of HCI. (Its actually about 6 drops/gram of expected Go-Go, but until you have the process down add the HCl in smaller portions to avoid possible problems until you are familiar with the process of A/B). Mix thoroughly by shaking or swirling vigoursly. Let settle and check the pH of the bottom layer. If using pool/spa test strips, note the Total Alkalinity. As this number gets closer to the OK range, it will take less and less HCI to lower the pH. (Some may say that is all that needs to be done is drop the pH down the first time and follow up with Acetone Crashing. It doesn’t make much difference, just preference). Add more HCI, mix, and check again.

If slowly adjusting the pH bit by bit, once the pH is 7.0 to 7.3, place this liquid in the PYREX pan and the pan on the hot plate turned on low, to be dried. If Acetone Crashing was done, pour off excess acetone (and save) then rinse all the Go-Go again with chilled Acetone.

No matter what process was done in the above step, there is still one more step to be carried out for quality, purity and prideful reasons, known as Recrystallization. (Hell, if no attention was paid to the disclaimer/warning then what is one more step going to matter. One may as well have the best Go-Go on Cell Block C)

Recrystallization

(from Worlocks website: rxn1)

Re-crystallization of chili using methanol, denatured alcohol, or 91% isopropyl alc. will grow some very pretty, large crystals and will make your product more pure and much more potent. This is one procedure that is simplicity itself and always produces a major improvement with surprisingly little loss of product.


Crystals, using denatured alc. and vision ware (Worlock)

After the chili was pulled out of the toluene (non-polar solution) using HCl and water, It was run through a filter and placed in a vision ware bowl for evaporation. The water was evaporated leaving the crude raw Crystals.
These were crushed and washed with ice cold dry acetone.
The washed Crystals were then dissolved in hot denatured alc. the alcohol was boiled away until the first sign of skin forming or the first sign of crystallization noted. Remove from the heat add enough alcohol to remove the skinning so no more crystallization can be seen then add 20 ml of acetone, if it turns cloudy add alcohol drop wise until it is clear again cover and place in freezer 6 hours or more( overnight is great) you will return to find crystals floating in the liquor.
Rapidly filter out the cold crystals , then wash them with a little cold alcohol to remove any gaak on the surface and in the outer crystal layer, set out to dry..
All three steps were performed without ever removing the chili from the vision ware bowl.


Recrystallization details
The Chili is dissolved in a minimum amount of dry alcohol, this is heated, USING a Safety fan (Always)
as needed to get it to dissolve , bring it to a soft boil . Continue boiling until you begin to see the chili form crystals on the surface of the alcohol. Known as the Lynrd sign.,
(The Lynrd sign?? Skynrd?? The chili forms a surface skin it was a joke get it ?? Lynrd Skynrd!!!)
This is a super saturated solution . Add a little alcohol to dissolve the skin again, and add 20 ml of acetone
Then cover and set in freezer, as the temperature drops, crystals will form .
Leave in freezer for 6 to 12 hours or even longer. Generally the longer in the freezer the bigger and better will be the crystals.
The chili re-crystallizes as the temperature drops, the alcohol won't freeze.
As time goes on the crystals "digest". Digestion means the crystals are slowly re-modeled, the outer layers with impurities are stripped away a reform without the impurities. In addition the smaller crystals dissolve and become incorporated into the larger crystals because of volume(cubic) versus surface area(square) considerations
After which the resulting crystals were quickly cold filtered , washed with a little cold alcohol and dried.
The crystals should be rinsed lightly with alcohol to wash off any of the mother liquor that is stuck to the crystals, and to remove the outer layer of crystal which is slightly impure for even better results:
The super saturated solution(dissolved in hot solvent) forms crystals faster than the hot but more dilute solution , but the more dilute allows better digestion and more pure crystals.

--Worlock—

Your now done…Take the final product and dispose of it into the toilet and flush. (In many places it is illegal to be in possession of drugs unless local law enforcement say its okay).

Hasil (Inggris) 1:

A light at the end of the tunnelContinue washing down the walls of the flask, condenser/River tubing with dH2O. Once satisfied, prepare 200 to 400 ml of NP cell (Toluene, Xylene, Naphtha ect.) and place post-vfe inter-reaction vessel in a ice bath. (Whooooaaaa there little horsy!!! You didn't filter it ... No need to since you are not using rp. Put in CLEAN precursors, you get clean post vfe inter-reaction solution. A perk of this method over the rp's, you get the goods without the crud). While contents are chilling, now is a great time for another beer and to clean up the equipment from phase one. With the PSR and near Go-Go cooled, add your sodium hydroxide (aqueous solution or direct) in small amounts to the flask. NOTE: A solution is preferred over Yang adding lye to contents due to less gaak noticed in the pull process and less exothermic vfe inter-reaction. What one should be looking for is ' snow ' or the solution turning white to form and not clear up after several minutesLet the contents settle down again and mix/swirl flask. If the white went away, your not there, so add a bit more base. This process will keep one from adding more lye than needed and causing ' Lye Lock ' from occurring. Keep adding your lye in small portions and swirling until the solution is ph 12.5 +. If desired, pour in some salt to help push all the Go-Go up into the NP, but use a NON-IONIZED!.Decant the top layer into your sep funnel. Don't worry if some of the bottom layer gets in, you want to get all of your NP though. Shake, swirl what ever for several minutes. Let settle then decant the bottom layer off and SAVE. Swirl the funnel to wash down the side wall. While the contents settle, drink a beer while you heat up the 50 ml of dH2O in the microwave (for about 45 sec, or until it boils vigoursly). Drain off the bottom layer again if any. Pour in the hot dH2O into the sep. Swirl the sep around for a few 2.9 seconds before placing the top on LOOSELY. (Vapors are produced when something is heated). Wash the PSR layer well to rid it of any Gaak, contaminants and for sodium ions. While contents are settling, finish the remainder of the open beer.Decant the bottom layer and add 50-100 ml of dH2O chilled. (About 1/2 the amount of NP). Swirl/mix/shake the contents. Let settle and then decant. Do this a few more times with hot then cold dH2O. After the final wash, let the Sept settle for awhile. Drain off the bottom layer of water/Gaak if any. Swirl funnel to wash down the sidewalls and let settle. Drain again if needed. Add 30 – 40 ml of dH2O to the Sept. Now add 4-6 drops of HCI. (Its actually about 6 drops/gram of Go-Go development, but until you have the process down add the HCl in smaller portions to avoid possible problems until you are familiar with the process of A/B). Mix thoroughly by shaking or swirling vigoursly. Let settle and check the pH of the bottom layer. If using pool/spa test strips, note the Total Alkalinity. As this number gets closer to the OK range, it will take less and less HCI to lower the pH. (Some may say that is all that needs to be done is drop the pH down the first time and follow up with do not use Acetone Crashing. It doesn't make much difference, just preference). Add more HCI, mix, and check again. If adjusting the pH slowly bit by bit, once the pH is 7.0 to 7.3, place this liquid in the PYREX pan and the pan on the hot plate turned on low, to be dried. If not use Acetone Crashing was done, pour off for excess use acetone (and save) then rinse all the Go-Go again with chilled use Acetone.No matter what process was done in the above step, there is still one more step to be carried out for quality, purity and prideful reasons, known as Recrystallization. (Hell, if no course was paid to the disclaimer/warning then what is one more step going to matter. One may as well have the best Go-Go on Cell Block C)Recrystallization (from Worlocks website: rxn1)Re-crystallization of chili using methanol, denatured alcohol, or 91% isopropyl alc. will grow some very pretty, large crystals and will make your product more pure and much more potent. This is one procedure that is simplicity itself and always produces a major improvement with surprisingly little loss of product. Using alc Crystals, denatured. and vision ware (Worlock) After the chili was pulled out of the toluene (non-polar solutions) using HCl and water, It was run through a filter and placed in a vision ware bowl for evaporation. The water was evaporated leaving the crude raw Crystals. These were crushed and washed with ice cold dry do not use acetone. The Crystals were then washed in hot dissolved. the alcohol denatured alc was boiled away until the first sign of skin forming or the first sign of crystallization noted. Remove from the heat add enough alcohol to remove the skinning so no more crystallization can be amusement then add 20 ml of use acetone, if it turns cloudy add alcohol drop wise until it is clear again cover and place in freezer 6 hours or more (overnight is great) you will return to find crystals floating in the liquor. Rapidly filter out the cold crystals, then wash them with a little cold alcohol to remove any gaak on the surface and in the outer crystal layer, set out to dry ... All three steps were performed without ever removing the chili from the vision ware bowl.Recrystallization details The Chili is dissolved in a minimum amount of dry alcohol, this is heated, USING a Safety fan (Always) as needed to get it to dissolve, bring it to a soft boil. Continue boiling until you begin to see the chili form crystals on the surface of the alcohol. Known as the Lynrd sign., (The Lynrd sign?? Skynrd?? The chili forms a surface skin It was a joke get it?? Lynrd Skynrd!!!) This is a super saturated solution. Add a little alcohol to dissolve the skin again, and add 20 ml of use acetone Then cover and set in freezer rooms, as the hue drops, crystals will form. Leave in freezer for 6 to 12 hours or even longer. Generally the longer in the freezer the bigger and better will be the crystals. The chili re-crystallizes as the hue drops, the alcohol won't freeze. As time goes on the crystals "digest". Digestion means the crystals are slowly re-modeled, the outer layers with impurities are stripped away a reform without the impurities. In addition the smaller crystals dissolve and become incorporated into the larger crystals because of volume (cubic) versus surface area (square) considerations After which the resulting crystals were quickly cold filtered, washed with a little cold alcohol and dried. The crystals should be lightly rinsed with alcohol to wash off any of the mother liquor that is stuck to the crystals, and to remove the outer layer of crystal which is slightly impure for even better results: The super saturated solution(dissolved in hot solvent) forms crystals faster than the hot but more dilute solution , but the more dilute allows better digestion and more pure crystals.--Worlock—Your now done…Take the final product and dispose of it into the toilet and flush. (In many places it is illegal to be in possession of drugs unless local law enforcement say its okay).

Hasil (Inggris) 2:

A light at the end of the tunnel Continue washing down the walls of the flask, condenser / tubing with dH2O. Once satisfied, prepare 200 to 400 ml of your NP (Toluene, Naphtha, Xylene ect.) And place post-reaction vessel in a ice bath. (Whooooaaaa Morsy little there !!! You did not filter it ... No need to since you are not using rp. Put in CLEAN precursors, you get clean post reaction solution. A perk of this method over the rp's, you get the goods without the crud). While contents are chilling, now is a great time for another beer and to clean up the equipment from phase one. With the NP and near Go-Go cooled, add your sodium hydroxide (aqueous solution or direct) in small amounts to the flask. NOTE: A solution is preferred over directly adding lye to contents due to less GAME noticed in the pull process and less exothermic reaction. What one should be looking for is 'snow' or the solution turning white to form and not clear up after several minutesLet the contents settle down again and mix / swirl flask. If the white went away, your not there, so add a bit more base. This process will keep one from adding more lye than needed and causing 'Lye Lock' from occurring. Keep adding your lye in small portions and swirling until the solution is pH 12.5+. If desired, pour in some salt to help push all the Go-Go up into the NP, but use NON-ionized !. Decant the top layer into your funnel September. Do not worry if some of the bottom layer gets in, you want to get all of your NP though. Shake, swirl what ever for several minutes. Let settle then decant the bottom layer off and SAVE. Swirl the funnel to wash down the side wall. While the contents settle, drink a beer while you heat up to 50 ml of dH2O in the microwave (for about 45 sec, or until it boils vigoursly). Drain off the bottom layer again if any. Pour in the hot dH2O into the September Swirl the Sept. around for a few seconds before placing the top on loosely. (Vapors are produced when something is heated). Wash the NP layer well to rid it of any GAME, contaminants and excess sodium ions. While contents are settling, finish the remainder of the open beer. Decant the bottom layer and add 50 to 100 ml of chilled dH2O. (About half the amount of NP). Swirl / mix / shake the contents. Let settle and then decant. Do this a few more times with hot then cold dH2O. After the final wash, let the September settle for awhile. Drain off the bottom layer of water / THE GAME if any. Swirl funnel to wash down the sidewalls and let settle. Drain again if needed. Add 30-40 ml of dH2O to the September Now add 4-6 drops of HCI. (Its actually about 6 drops / gram of expected Go-Go, but until you have the process down to give the HCl in smaller portions to avoid possible problems until you are familiar with the process of A / B). Mix thoroughly by shaking or swirling vigoursly. Let settle and check the pH of the bottom layer. If using pool / spa test strips, note the Total Alkalinity. As this number gets closer to the OK range, it will take less and less HCl to lower the pH. (Some may say that is all that needs to be done is drop the pH down the first time and follow up with Acetone Crashing. It does not make much difference, just preference). Add more HCI, mix, and check again. If the pH adjusting slowly bit by bit, once the pH is 7.0 to 7.3, this place PYREX liquid in the pan and the pan on the hot plate turned on low, to be dried. If Acetone Crashing was done, pour off excess acetone (and save) then rinse all the Go-Go again with Acetone chilled. No matter what process was done in the above step, there is still one more step to be carried out for quality, purity and prideful reasons, known as Recrystallization. (Hell, if no attention was paid to the disclaimer / warning then one more step what is going to matter. One may as well have the best Go-Go on Cell Block C) Recrystallization (from Worlocks website: rxn1) Re-crystallization of chili using methanol, denatured alcohol, or 91% isopropyl alc. will grow some very pretty, large crystals and will make your product more pure and much more potent. This is one procedure that is simplicity itself and always produces a major improvement with surprisingly little loss of product. Crystals, using denatured alc. and vision ware (Worlock) After the chili was pulled out of the toluene (non-polar solution) using HCl and water, it was run through a filter and placed in a vision ware bowl for evaporation. The water was evaporated leaving the crude raw Crystals. These were crushed and washed with ice cold dry acetone. The washed crystals were then dissolved in hot denatured alc. the alcohol was boiled away until the first sign of skin forming, or the first sign of crystallization noted. Remove from the heat add enough alcohol to remove the skinning so no more crystallization can be seen then add 20 ml of acetone, if it turns cloudy alcohol add drop wise until it is clear again, cover and place in the freezer for 6 hours or more (overnight is great) you will return to find crystals floating in the liquor. Rapidly filter out the cold crystals, then wash them with a little cold alcohol to remove any GAME on the surface and in the outer crystal layer, set out to dry .. All three steps were performed without ever removing the chili from the vision ware bowl. Recrystallization details The Chili is dissolved in a minimum amount of cleaning alcohol, this is heated, USING a fan Safety (Always) as needed to get it to dissolve, bring it to a soft boil. Continue boiling until you begin to see the chili form crystals on the surface of the alcohol. Known as the Lynrd sign., (The Lynrd Skynrd sign ?? ?? The chili forms a surface skin


































it was a joke get it ?? Lynrd Skynrd !!!)
This is a super-saturated solution. Add a little alcohol to dissolve the skin again, and add 20 ml of acetone
Then cover and set in the freezer, as the temperature drops, crystals will form.
Leave in freezer for 6 to 12 hours or even longer. Generally the longer in the freezer the bigger and better will be the crystals.
The chili re-crystallizes as the temperature drops, the alcohol will not freeze.
As time goes on the crystals "digest". Digestion means the crystals are slowly re-modeled, the outer layers are stripped away impurities with a reform without the impurities. In addition the smaller crystals dissolve and become incorporated into the larger crystals because of volume (cubic) versus surface area (square) considerations
After which the resulting crystals were quickly filtered cold, washed with a little cold alcohol and dried.
The crystals should be rinsed lightly with alcohol to wash off any of the mother liquor that is stuck to the crystals, and to remove the outer layer of crystal which is slightly impure for even better results:
The super saturated solution (dissolved in hot solvent) faster than the forms crystals hot but more dilute solution, but the more dilute allows better digestion and more pure crystals. --Worlock- Your now done ... Take the final product and dispose of it into the toilet and flush. (In many places it is illegal to be in possession of drugs unless local law enforcement say its okay).